After Venice earlier this June, we spent 5 nights in Paris, a city I hadn’t seen in 29 years. It is as beautiful and vibrant as I remembered.

My husband took these twilight images from the top of the Arc de Triomphe, looking out over the city. Here you can see a modern arch, the Grande Arche de la Défense, on axis with the Arc de Triomphe…

…and of course echoing the form of that famous monument.

It’s a monumental monument…

…with a fierce rendering of Liberty leading a charge.

Other, more somber sculpted faces on a pillar

While its monuments are grand, Paris is a city that knows how to enjoy itself. The whole city seems to turn out in its parks to lounge in green Fermob chairs, as seen here in Jardin du Luxembourg.

And sprawled on a lawn between allées of pleached chestnuts.

Wide gravel paths invite walking too.

I love how those green Fermob chairs are set out at the park for anyone to use. People pulled them up to the edge of a fountain for a footrest, sunbathed in them, napped in them, and read books in them. (Parisians are great readers. We saw people reading everywhere.)

Or just gazed at the world while enjoying a relaxing slouch.

We dragged a few chairs together under a leafy bosque and did as the French do — just hung out for a while and talked.

Parisians are just as serious about their cafes — flocking to tiny sidewalk tables every evening — and we enjoyed our share of those too.

Did I mention books? I saw Parisians everywhere with books in their hands, reading on the Metro and in parks. We had to stop by Shakespeare and Company, of course — a famous English-language bookstore that was featured in one of my favorite movies, Before Sunset (part 2 of the Before Sunrise trilogy by Austin filmmaker Richard Linklater). Its warren of book-stacked rooms is a bookworm’s dream come true.

In a chalk inscription, a quote from Walt Whitman’s poem So Long evokes the magic of reading:

Camerado! This is no book;
Who touches this, touches a man;
(Is it night? Are we here alone?)
It is I you hold, and who holds you;
I spring from the pages into your arms…

One day we went to Montmartre to visit Sacre-Coeur Basilica, a beautiful white church perched high on a hill overlooking the city.

Fog had socked in the view, but we paused, like everyone else, for a selfie on the steps.

St. John’s wort was making its own sunshine alongside a descending stone staircase, as we headed downhill into the charming and artsy neighborhood of Montmartre.

We browsed in a few shops…

…checked out the local produce…

…and bakeries…

…and admired the ubiquitous street art.

I was intrigued by these planters set atop posts along the street — a private beautification effort?

At the bottom of the hill we found the famous Moulin Rouge caberet.

Of course we visited the Louvre, the world’s most-visited art museum, which is housed in the former palace of French kings.

Inside the modern glass-pyramid entrance, I admired the architectural juxtaposition of old and new.

Inside it’s all very gold and opulent and, frankly, overwhelming. I think you’d need a year of daily visits to see all the art. Maybe two.

Hercules fighting Achelous transformed into a snake, by François Joseph Bosio

We spent 5 hours in the museum and barely scraped the surface.

Eventually we were Louvre’d out.

We remembered about French eating and relaxing, however, and enjoyed a meal on the terrace (great view!).

Another day we visited the Musée de l’Orangerie to see Monet’s waterlilies. The curved paintings wrapping around the room are seductively immersive.

We visited Monet’s garden in Giverny on our last day in France; click for the link.

After the Eiffel Tower, perhaps Notre-Dame Cathedral is the most famous of Paris landmarks.

Waiting in line to get in gave us time to check out the carvings around the central doorway, Portal of the Judgment, installed in 1220-1230. In graphic form, the dead rise from their graves below Christ’s feet…

…souls are weighed, and devils gleefully chain and lead to Hell those found wanting.

On the left side’s Portal of the Virgin, tall figures look on, including the martyred St. Denis cradling his own head.

Inside, the faithful light votives and offer their prayers.

The religious art inside is softer than the fearful sculpture of the portals.

Biblical stories rendered in stained glass lift the eyes heavenward.

Set amid heavy blocks of stone, the stained-glass windows glow with jewel-colored light.

After the solemn and awe-inspiring church visit, we were treated to a light-hearted scene just outside: two girls feeding pigeons with birdseed and standing like statues as the birds landed on arms and heads.

Sometimes all you need is a goofy Pikachu shirt, a pigeon on your head, and a big smile for the world to seem full of light.

Goodbye, beautiful Paris!

Coming up next: Visiting the waterlilies and flower gardens of Monet’s garden in Giverny. For a look back at our exploration of Venice, click here.

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