For years I’ve wanted to visit Krause Springs, a spring-fed swimming hole and campground in Spicewood, Texas, about 45 minutes northwest of Austin. Last Saturday we drove out there, past bluebonnets splashing ribbons of blue along the roadsides. We arrived early, and for a short time, while the Easter weekend campers slept in or cycled through the rustic bathrooms, we had the glorious swimming hole and its cascading waterfall to ourselves.

There are 32 springs on the 115-acre property, which has been privately owned by the Krause family since the 1950s. Never running dry and flowing at a constant 68F degrees (according to staff), spring water trickles over the edge of a pocked-limestone bluff on one side of the creek’s large pool, making a beaded-curtain-like waterfall. Emerald-green maidenhair ferns and mosses cling to the limestone cliff, and a jutting rock makes a perfect spot for swimmers to lounge and be bathed by the falling water.

Towering bald cypresses edge the swimming hole, their roots deep in the water, their knobby knees sticking up in the air.

Next to a massive boulder, one of the cypresses leans over the pool, dangling a knotted rope that entices daredevils to swing out over the water.

I snapped a few shots of this girl…

…who flew high…

…and then dropped in with a splash. Afterward she swam over, introduced herself as Steele (cool name), and asked me if I’d send the pics to her. I did, and I hope she enjoys them!

This boy is preparing for a big swing too.

Swinging low…

…and then high — and then jump!

It was still peaceful as more swimmers arrived, pausing at the water’s edge, working up the nerve to jump in.

What a beautiful place.

Sinuous bald cypress roots and stout, straight trunks like cathedral columns line the bank.

With pant cuffs rolled high, I explored the marshy creek, careful not to brush against prolific poison ivy or slip on roots or rocks. The place seemed to shimmer with fresh green leaves.

Rocks, pools, and roots

Old cypress stumps hosted new plants within a cradle of gray wood.

Maidenhair fern

Cypress, water, and rocks

The springs feed into Little Cypress Creek, which flows into Lake Travis.

I followed the bluff back along the creek, checking out numerous small caves gaping in the soft limestone wall.

Another waterfall trickles down the ferny bluff here…

…splashing onto algae-greened rocks and then flowing into the creek.

Krause Springs is a spectacular place, especially in the early morning before it gets crowded. There’s also a spring-fed, man-made swimming pool atop the bluff, numerous picnic tables, and a garden with enormous Music of the Spheres wind chimes and a pretty grotto fountain.

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